The Twisted Road

The tea has been fabulous but I've been pretty let down by the coffee available in South East Asia. For countries that grow coffee it's pretty shocking that they think Nescafé is the thing to drink. I've had the rare good cup but overall it's just not as good as home. So what's a coffee addict to do? Why go to Java of course! Surely I can find a good cup of coffee there. 

My trips started in Jakarta, a pretty standard Asian city which means its hot, a bit dirty and a whole lot of crazy. I like it immediately. There is nothing like the buzz of motorbikes zipping through traffic and the call of "hey lady, you want to buy a..." to welcome you into a new country. I decided that for this portion of my trip I would join a tour group and let someone else deal with my travel and accommodation needs so I signed up for Intrepid Travel's Jakarta to Ubud tour. We're an eclectic group of 10 which should make things very interesting indeed! 

Our journey started with a train ride through the countryside to Bandung. I can't tell you how happy it made me to see acres of rice paddies. I don't think this colour green exists elsewhere and when the sun shines in them there are no words to describe how beautiful it is. It makes my heart sing. The music provided by the train however was a bit painful to listen to.

The town of Bandung is known as the Paris of Indonesia. It's a big city, over 5 million people, and it was occupied by the Dutch until the 1940's. It's one of three cities in the world with art deco style architecture and it's really quite stunning. And we had plenty of time to enjoy the scenery since the traffic here is as bad as Bangkok, which if you've been there you'll know that I mean chaotic movement of cars and motorbikes leading to gridlock and plenty of horn honking. 

So far I'm very impressed with Java. The locals have been very nice, the food has been outstanding, and it's been a great couple of days. And yes, they make a great cup of coffee. 

Borneo always fascinated me as a kid. I had read the stories of the early explorers in the untamed rainforest and imagined them visiting the indigenous headhunter tribes, riding elephants and roasting wild boar over a fire pit. So when planning my trip to south east Asia, Borneo was a must see for me and it's the place I was most excited to visit. 

The reality is that the old Borneo is gone. In its place is a country with modern cities, small coastal towns and plenty of palm oil plantations. I knew this coming here but when I first landed in Kota Kinabalu I still couldn't help but feel a bit disappointed in all the concrete I was seeing. But the rational side of me took over and I was ready to see what the modern Borneo had to offer. 

A half hour plane ride took me to Sandakan, a small city on the west coast of Sabah, Borneo. After a visit to the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre I hoped on a boat for a two and a half hour boat ride up the Kinabatangan River where I found the Borneo of my dreams. This Borneo has tall trees, thick vegetation, colourful birds and wild animals I've only seen in pictures. In the morning I woke to monkeys climbing on the roof and at night I drifted off to sleep to the call of the insects. During the day we took boat trips down lazy rivers to see birds, proboscis monkeys, macaques, birds, langurs, wild boars and monitor lizards. I didn't get to see the notoriously shy orang utan but I did see a herd of pygmy elephants having lunch by the river. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine being so close to some of the most exotic animals and birds on our planet. It was a dream come true. 

On my last day I visited the Gomantong Caves. The attraction here beyond the obvious is the edible-nest swifts who make their home here. As you can probably guess by their name, these are the nests are used in birds nest soup. After hearing that the nest is made with grass and saliva that is one delicacy I do not want to try. The caves are also home to bats, long legged centipedes, spiders and cockroaches. The bat guano is overpowering and there are so many cockroaches the floor looked like it was moving. I can't say I liked the cave but it certainly was fascinating and I'm proud of myself for not running out of it screaming like a little girl. The primary rainforest that surrounds the cave is spectacular, walking through it was magical, and we did get to see some maroon langurs getting ready for bed which was a nice bonus. 

Overall my trip to Sabah Borneo was fantastic and I'm so glad I came here. My guides were amazing and made my trip here so very memorable. Today I fly to Kuching in Sarawak, the other province in Borneo, and I can't wait to see what's in store for me there. 

You may have noticed that I don't really talk about the guesthouses I stay at. It's because there isn't much to say. I could tell you that this one has a tv, this one a chair, this one comes with its own cockroach, but mostly they're just a place to sleep and shower. But now I have one to talk about.

On the recommendation of a friend I decided to spend a couple of days at Taman Negara National Park. Malaysia has the worlds oldest rainforest and I'd have the opportunity to step back in time and see some untouched wilderness. The trip started with a three hour bus ride and finished with a three hour boat trip up the river. This place is definitely off the beaten path. I chose to stay at the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort since it backs onto the park. What a great way to experience the rainforest!

Now the rainforest itself has trails you can follow and I did do some trekking. It's so peaceful, the birds chirp away, insects buzz around and occasionally you hear a larger animal making their way to the nearest food supply. The trees are high, so high they block the sun and noise from the river that runs through it. I had the chance to do a canopy walk which is a swinging bridge that trails through 250 metres of tree tops. Unbelievable! It starts at 10 metres above the ground and makes its way up to 35 metres. The walk was scary and exhilarating and the view was spectacular! Of course we didn't see any wildlife while in the park. It's difficult to see any animals or birds with all the thick foliage that surrounds you. But that's okay because I have all kinds of opportunities to see wildlife at the lodge! 

This place is something really special. When I first arrived I went for a walk to check out the grounds. There are about 100 bungalows spread out through numerous pathways so it makes for a nice walk. Within 20 minutes of arriving I ran into a sambar deer nibbling away at some grass. He was playful and tame enough to pet. Getting that close to wildlife is always such a thrill and I considered myself lucky to have seen him. But, the fun didn't stop there. 

Another encounter occurred while I was sitting on my porch reading. I caught a movement outbid the corner of my eye and I saw a long tailed macaque wandering up the sidewalk to my bungalow. He jumped up on the handrail of the stairs and posed for some photos. Wow! Although I'd seen plenty of monkeys playing around in the trees that's the closest I got to one. 

Perhaps my most exciting and startling encounter occurred when I was trying to figure out how to open the umbrella I was going to use to go to dinner. It's a rainforest and of course it rains a lot. This was a downpour and it had finally calmed down enough to make a dash to the restaurant. So it was dark and I was playing with this umbrella and I heard a honk beside me. I looked over only to see an elephant strolling casually through the rain beside my bungalow! 

This is truly the most amazing place I've ever stayed at. At night I heard the sounds of the jungle behind me and the insects sang me to sleep. I woke up to the songs of the birds. The storms were startling close and the thunder could shake the bungalow but when it wasn't raining it was remarkably calm and the heat would take your breath away. And everywhere I looked there was something new to see. It was an amazing experience, the kind that you get only once or twice in a lifetime if you're lucky. My only wish was that you could have been here to share it with me. 

Lessons from the road

It's been three and a half months since I left home. There are days when it feels like it was just yesterday and days when home feels a lifetime away. Before I left home I was excited to finally experience my dream come true but I had a lot of concerns too. Would I adjust to the different cultures I'd experience, would I be able to find anyone who spoke English, would I make friends, would I be homesick or lonely? But my tickets were bought and my plans were made so I wasn't going to back out of my trip, I couldn't even if I wanted to. So on January 9 I got on a plane to take me into the great unknown. 

Fast forward three and a half months and I know the answer to all my questions is yes. When I told my family and friends of my plans it excited me to think of all the great places I'd go. I dreamt of fabulous palaces and temples, palm tree studded beaches, rugged mountains, glitzy cities and heartwarming towns. And yes, I've seen all that and more. But there is much more to traveling then that. 

A friend I met along the way said something to me that I'll never forget. She said that unlike vacations which are a break from reality traveling isn't a break from life, it is your life. And although I'm in between careers and homes, this is very much my life right now. My stresses have certainly changed but I still have them. I worry about the days I have to travel, will everything go smoothly and will I have a hotel room when I get there. I worry about getting lost. I worry that I won't meet companions to keep me company on the days I want some. And of course I worry about my safety. 

I've learned a lot since I left home. I've learned that I can count on the kindness of strangers. Most people will take pity on the little lost white girl standing on the corner and help me find my way. And a smile goes a long way when bridging the language barrier. 

I've learned that I can survive living with geckos, spiders, cockroaches and the occasional frog. And I don't need a lot to be happy and content. 

I've learned that there are many inspirational people in this world. From the students I taught to the friends I've made, many lead lives that humble and inspire me. 

I've learned that you can find friends in the most unlikely places but you can also feel alone in the middle of a big city. 

I've learned that I can rise to the challenge. Whether its teaching English or navigating the Malaysian bus system, I'll find a way to get the job done. 

I've learned that I can count on myself. I make good decisions and have good instincts. 

I've learned to really appreciate all that I have in my life. I'm a very lucky person and I will not take that for granted.

I've learned that being homesick and lonely is okay. It makes me appreciate the loved ones I have even more. 

My adventure ends June 10 when I will come home to my family and friends, and to the task of looking for a job. I will start a new chapter of my life in a familiar land but with a new perspective of the world and my small part in it. 

I've traded in the palm trees and beach for the glitz and glamour of the city. Well, to be honest it's not very glitzy or glamourous, but after spending 3 weeks on peaceful islands it's good enough! Georgetown is a very unique place. It's an old colonial town which has a UNESCO World Heritage designation. Interspersed with Chinese and Indian architecture, this is one of the most interesting cities I've been in. 

It's not unusual to hear the Muslim call to prayer while eating dim sum at a poplar Chinese restaurant. You can find delicious Hainanese food and drink a pint of Guinness at the local Irish pub. All this in a town that is named after a king of England. 

The centre of town is small and easy to walk around. I've explored the ferry docks, China town, little India and of course Lebah Cambell, the main shopping street. Georgetown is a pretty town and it's unfortunate there aren't more outdoor cafes to spend an afternoon people watching. But when on the streets people give you a smile when you walk by. It's that kind of a friendly town that feels like a warm hug when you're here. 

It's been nice to be back in a city. I had been in Thailand long enough to be lulled into that "island" vibe, which is a great feeling but I suspect if I hadn't left when I did I'd have never mustered up the energy to leave. Georgetown has given me a much needed boost of energy, the zing is back in my step. And that's enough to keep me moving on.